Bacalao Guisado con Viandas

As I continue recipe testing for my cookbook, I landed on Bacalao Guisado con Viandas this week. A dish that unexpectedly reminded me why this work has become so much bigger than simply documenting my mom’s traditional Puerto Rican recipes.

Yes, that’s still the goal, but what I’ve realized is how deeply my own perspective, project, and understanding of our food has expanded. The deeper I go, the more I recognize the wisdom built into the food I grew up eating. The intricate steps that a seemingly modest dish requires.

Particularly with this one, I took note of the soaking. The desalting. The gentle, precise simmer that kept the fish from falling apart.

None of it accidental. All of it intentional. And while I inherently knew this, it has become much more evident to me now.

You see, I’m not simply following written instructions as I test these recipes. Instead, I’m learning to meticulously gather what remains.

It has become a meditative process of testing, adjusting, and trying again. Sitting with my family, asking the questions, and listening for even the smallest details. Comparing what one person remembers with what another person does, then holding all of it against the way my own palate remembers it.

Which then leads me to the broader landscape, where I find myself asking: Where did these ingredients come from? Is there documentation of when this dish came to be? Do we know how it has evolved, or whether it has evolved at all?

What started as a way to recover my mom’s recipes after her passing has become a way to understand the overarching narrative around them. The rich history inside these dishes. The quiet intelligence of our food.

So today, I’m sharing this version as I continue the work.

A plate of Bacalao Guisado con Viandas, as a reminder that Puerto Rican cooking does not have to look elaborate to be worth paying attention to.

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Bacalao Guisado con Viandas

Author: Kathleen Pagán

A plate of Bacalao Guisado con Viandas, as a reminder that Puerto Rican cooking does not have to look elaborate to be worth paying attention to.

Ingredients

For the bacalao

• 1½ lbs salted cod/bacalao
• Cold water for soaking and boiling.

For the achiote oil

• ½ cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons achiote/annatto seeds

For the viandas

• 2 guineos verdes
• 1 large yautía

For the guiso

• 3 tablespoons achiote oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, sliced
• ½ green bell pepper, sliced
• ½ red bell pepper, sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, finely minced or grated
• ¼ cup sofrito
• 1 8 oz can tomato sauce
• ¾ packet sazón
• ¾ teaspoon garlic powder
• ¾ teaspoon onion powder
• ½ teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 bay leaf
• ⅓ cup manzanilla olives
• 3 to 4 sprigs cilantro
• 1 to 2 culantro leaves

Instructions

Soak + desalt the bacalao

1. Rinse the bacalao well, then soak it in cold water overnight in the fridge, changing the water 2 to 3 times.
2. Drain, cover with fresh cold water, and gently simmer uncovered for 10 minutes. A gentle simmer means small bubbles, not a hard boil.
3. Do not stir so the fish does not break apart. Taste a small piece. If it is still too salty, repeat with fresh water for another 5 to 10 minutes.
4. Drain well and gently flake into large pieces, removing any bones.

Make the achiote oil + boil the viandas

1. In a small saucepan, warm the olive oil and achiote seeds over low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, until the oil turns a deep orange-red color. Do not let the seeds burn.
2. Remove from the heat, let cool for about 5 minutes, then strain and discard the seeds.
3. Peel the guineos and yautía, then cut the yautía into large chunks. Boil uncovered for about 25 minutes, or until fork-tender. Drain and set aside.

Make the guiso

1. In a large skillet, caldero, or Dutch oven, heat 3 tablespoons of achiote oil over medium heat.
2. Add the onion and peppers. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until softened.
3. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, just until fragrant.
4. Add the sofrito and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring often, until it deepens in color and smell.
5. Add the tomato sauce, sazón, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, bay leaf, olives, cilantro, and culantro. Stir and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, until the sauce comes together.

Finish the bacalao con viandas

1. Add the flaked bacalao to the guiso and gently fold it in, being careful not to over-stir.
2. Simmer uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes, allowing the bacalao to absorb the flavor of the guiso.
3. Add the cooked guineos and yautía, then gently fold everything together. Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Remove the bay leaf, cilantro sprigs, and culantro leaves before serving.